To me, failure is not living up to my potential.
You got to go in the mud sometimes to figure who you are.
-Andy Irons
Andy Irons is arguably one of the most famous and impressive surfers the world has ever known. Like too many other raw and incomprehensible talents, Andy was afflicted with addiction and a relapse lead to his untimely death. On November 2, 2010, the young life of Andy Irons was lost to a heart attack, which is believed to have been induced by a drug binge. The three-time world surfing champion was just 32 years old. Less than two days before his death, toxicology reports revealed, Andy had abused cocaine.
Next month, Andy Irons: Kissed by God will make its premiere. The long awaited documentary about Andy’s life gets its name from one of his most famous lines describing surfing. Unlike many other documentaries about surfing’s greatest, this film is intentionally looking at Andy’s struggles with opioid addiction as well as bipolar disorder. As Surfline explained, “…it is the coverage of Andy’s internal demons that is the most illuminating.” “While outwardly [Andy] was one of the most charismatic and popular personalities the surfing world had ever seen, internally he battled with depression,” Surfline writes.
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Across the surf world, the sentiments are the same. Andy Irons was lost too soon. His talents were immeasurable, his personality a rare and infectious breed. Like many men who live with bipolar disorder, in his manic states, Andy was untouchable. When he hit his lows, however, he sank to unreachable depths. Andy’s struggles were not unknown to the surf world. Many of his peers tried to help, offered their support, and unending love for one of the world’s best surfers.
The Irons family, including his bereaved wife Lyndie, son Axel, and fellow professional surfer brother Bruce Irons, hope that the film’s raw approach to Andy’s struggle is educational. Part of the film’s aim is to educate the public on mental health and addiction, while encouraging the surf community to take part in eliminating the stigma often associated with struggles like Andy’s.
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